A new stay in KLH: the hawthorn at the bridge is in full bloom, the branches heavy with flowers almost touch the water. We were up early after our fourth night this year in KLH, to go skinny-dipping in the river before anyone else is up. It's a bit crowded on the field here but it's getting less: last week it was even busier, says Margaret. After breakfast we'll pack our rucksacks to go up the Skiaryburn.

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